Hello Fellow Travelers:
Welcome to our world of business information, museums, adventure, birding, botanical gardens, good eating and fine wines. This newsletter provides you with “The Welge Report for Buenos Aires.
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Recognition: We extend special thanks to the people who manage and/or own the institutions, museums and restaurants featured in our guides. In some instances we have relied on their descriptions and photos.
Birding Opps: Info for our birding friends. In and near Buenos Aires you can see these species: Warbling Finch, Masked Gnatcatcher, Rufous Hornero, Mockingbird, Speckled Tyrant and the Wattled Jacana.
The Urban Birder (theurbanbirder.com/urban-birding/buenos-aires/) has great photos, lists species and hot spots.
The Fat Birder (fatbirder.com/links_geo/america_south/argentina_buenos_aires) has local info and lists top sites.
This is where to find your Birding Pal (birdingpal.org/Argentina.htm)
Transportation: (easybuenosairescity.com/) – Check out this website for specific information on The Subway System, Buses or Collectivos, Remises (Car Service), Taxis and Trains.
Shopping: There is a reason Buenos Aires is called the Paris of South America. The translation for Palmero is “trendy boutiques”. Likewise for San Telmo adding antiques and the “Sunday Market.” Recoleta is very upscale. Don’t overlook Florida St. Downtown.
Day One: Head for Teatro Colon – Daily: 9-5 (Tours leave every 15 minutes), 1171 Tucumán (Pasaje de Carruajes), 4378-7127
The Teatro Colon is considered one of the best theaters in the world. Acknowledged for its acoustics and the artistic value of its construction, it turned 100 years in 2008.
Extraordinary concerts and events are staged on a regular basis.
With many songs in your head and your heart it’s time for lunch at I Latina - L & D: Daily, 725 Murillo, 011-48579095
Start with the arepas which are a thin pancake, one filled with corn, chicharron and mashed black beans,the other the Costeña with shrimps, then try the octopus ceviche with an avocado foam, sweet potato,baby bok choy and peanuts or the duck with tamarind, goat cheese and avocado.
Your wine is the Lagarde Malbec. I Latina is one of Buenos Aires most celebrated restaurants.
After this awesome lunch, our cousins suggest visiting the National Museum of Fine Arts – Tu-F: 12:30-8:30, Sa,Su: 9:30-8:30, 1473 Av. Del Libertador, 5288-9945
The MNBA’s collection includes works by Tintoretto, El Greco, Rembrandt, Zurbarán, Tiepolo and medieval masters plus Van Gogh, Gauguin, Tolouse-Lautrec and Degas.
In addition there are early 20th century avant-garde masters such as Klee, Kandinsky, De Chirico, Carrà, Modigliani, Picasso and Léger.
19th and 20th Century Argentine Art is on the first floor. You can’t see it all so pick your area of interest carefully.
Although it’s been a long day we suggest visiting La Recoleta Cemetery – Daily: 7-5:45, 1760 Junín, entre Guido y Vicente López, Recoleta, 4803 1594
The cemetery, opened in 1822, is home to hundreds of illustrious corpses. The marble sculptures and stories are incredible.
It’s belies the saying that you can’t take it with you as you will see as you walk through. It is now harder to get into La Recoleta Cemetery than the posh flats that surround it.
Many Argentinian presidents are entombed here, but most of the cemetery’s visitors probably come to see the resting place of María Eva Duarte de Perón, aka Evita.
Dinner this evening is a great treat at one of our favorite experiences in B.A. The tango show at Esquina Carlos Gardel – Carlos Gardel 3200, 48 67 63 63
There are several options to see the show. We did a dinner that comes with wine, which was also a hoot.
It’s fun old-fashioned entertainment with high-tech acoustics and great dancers that will keep you smiling.
Day Two: Breakfast is at Café Tortoni – B,L,D: Daily, 825 Avenida de Mayo, 4342 4328
Café Tortoni was founded in 1858.It is the oldest coffee shop in Argentina and a traditional meeting place.
Have a cup of freshly roasted coffee with a crispy medialuna (Argentinian croissant) and enjoy the people watching. There is a small theater for tango shows.
Your first cultural stop today is the Plaza de Mayo, a top tourist attraction for those who visit Buenos Aires
and the home of Casa Rosada – 50 Balcarce, 11-4343-3051 the Pink House and the famous balcony from which Eva Perón made her famous speech on May Day 1952.
It has a wonderful museum with an entrance at Yrigoyen intersection with Paseo Colón Av.
The Plaza also contains the Pirámide de Mayo (the Pyramid of May), a nine-meter obelisk built in 1811 to mark the first anniversary of Argentina’s revolution against Spanish colonial rule.
Lunch is at the highly recommended La Cabrera - L & D: Daily, 5099 Calle Cabrera, Palermo Viejo, 54 911 4831 7002
We weren’t prepared for how crowded and busy it was. It was quite a show and very professional.
We, of course, over ordered. It’s easy to do because they bring copious side dishes of condiments and the steaks would feed a village.
For instance, we shared the Bife de Chorizo, which is a ribeye that was accompanied by sun-dried tomatoes, mushrooms, mashed potatoes, endive, squash and a chimichurri sauce.
Fun atmosphere and good service. A good wine pairing is the ’04 Escorihuela Gascon Malbec or the ’08 Torrentes Alta Vista Sauvignon Blanc. Be cautious. Share. You can always have dessert.
Your next stop is the Museo de Arte Latinamericano de Buenos Aires – Th-M: 12-10, W: till 11,3415 Avenida Figueroa Alcorta, 4808-6500
This was our favorite museum in Buenos Aires. Malba is dedicated to Latin American art of the 20th century that characterizes the art of the region in all media.
The artists represented come from Mexico and the Caribbean to Argentina. We spent quite a bit of time here and enjoyed the permanent collection as much as the special exhibit.
Dinner is at Tarquino – L: M-F, D: M-Sa, Rodriguez Pena 1967, 6091 2160
Lots of great choices that Cousin Pepe suggest sharing. A good starter is the oysters and pasta or the duck tartar with blue cheese.
Their filet is dusted with chimichurri and arrives with garlic and ginger mashed potatoes or the suckling pig is served with curried prawns.
Dessert is lemon flan and white chocolate. We suggest the ‘02 Carmelo Patti Cabernet Sauvignon.
Day Three: Breakfast today is at Havanna – B & L: Daily, 525 Florida, 4798 1630
The alfajores (it’s an Argentine biscuit filled with chocolate) are a must try. They also have good coffee. Havanna is very popular.
After breakfast we suggest a visit to La Boca – Take a taxi and if you are inclined to buy something we suggest a strong position on negotiation and bargaining.
La Boca is a carnival of color, retaining much of the flavor of its original settlers from Genoa, Italy.
The district’s main tourist attraction is Caminito, a pedestrian zone featuring cafés, Argentine restaurants artists and shops selling locally made handicrafts.
Many of the buildings in this waterfront district are faced with brightly painted corrugated metal, perfect for photo opportunities. You can probably get a picture of yourself and a local tango dancer.
A fascinating side-trip form B.A. is a cruise on the Tigre Delta.
From Buenos Aires, a 45-minute train goes from Retiro Station in to Tigre, and it runs about three times an hour.
Delta sightseeing and transit can be confusing and is best coordinated with your hotel concierge or a travel agent. We highly recommend this activity.
For your final meal on this journey we suggest Sucre – L & D: Daily, 676 Sucre, 4782 9082
To get here is a taxi ride but you won’t be disappointed. We suggest starting with the mixed ceviche of prawns,white fish and green mango or the burrata with peaches, prosciutto, wild arugula and an elderberry vinaigrette.
Then the veal sweetbreads with Argentinean potato salad or the braised pork belly with green apple cream and bitter orange caramel.
A good wine choice is the ’05 Chakana Malbec.
Until next time, best wishes and safe travels,
Dick & Dee Welge
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