Hello Fellow Travelers:
Welcome to our world of business information, adventure, birding, botanical gardens, good eating and fine wines. This newsletter provides you with “The Welge Report for Copenhagen
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Recognition: We extend special thanks to the people who manage and/or own the institutions, museums and restaurants featured in our guides. In some instances we have relied on their descriptions and photos.
Birding Opps: Info for our birding friends. In and near Copenhagen you can see these species: Common Crane, Spoonbill, Pale-bellied Brent Geese, Solitary Kingfisher and the Black-necked Grebe.
The DOF Kobenhaven (dofkbh.dk/visitors-guide-copenhagen-birds) is a good reference site.
The Fat Birder (fatbirder.com/links_geo/europe/denmark.html) has a list of good birding sites.
A list of Denmark birding Hot Spots can be found at (camacdonald.com/birding/eudenmark.htm).
Beverages – Beer is one of the most popular alcoholic drinks in Denmark, and the country has more breweries per capita than any other country in Europe. The most popular type of beer is Pilsner.
Transportation: This is your site for public transportation (visitcopenhagen.com/copenhagen/transportation/public-transport).
Business Information: Here is help in regard to your business: (thecopenhagenbook.dk/practicalinfodetails.aspx?id=20)
Exchange Rates (http://www.x-rates.com/)
Day One: Your first stop is The National Museum Of Denmark – Tu-Su: 10-5, Ny Vestergade 10, 45 33 13 44 11 to see Denmark’s largest museum of cultural history.
The museum’s main site is a classical 18th century mansion in which you can follow the history of the Danes to the present day.
The Stone Age in Denmark lasted from 12,500 to 3,900 BC. The National Museum has a large collection of antiquities from this period.
In Denmark the term Middle Ages is used for the period from around the year 1000, when Denmark first became a Christian kingdom, until 1536, when the Lutheran Reformation defeated and replaced the Roman Catholic Church controlled by the Pope.
The word renaissance in its original Italian form means ”rebirth” and is the term for the period in which interest in classical Greek and Roman antiquity awoke again after the Middle Ages.
The Reformation meant that the Danish Church became Protestant with the king as its supreme protector.
During this time there was no violent destruction of altars, figures and paintings, but rather a gradual removal of the numerous images of saints and side altars from the Catholic period.
The Danish absolute monarchy was introduced by Frederik III with a coup in 1660 and was abolished in 1848 with a peaceful revolution after the death of Christian VIII.
On June 5, 1849 Denmark gained its first free constitution, known as “Grundloven” in Danish. With this event the absolute monarchy was abolished.
In 1901 a change of political system was introduced in the form of parliamentarianism.
The state built up a social system that looked after the less advantaged groups in society, and with the emergence of a large new working class Denmark became a class society
Nearby is Stroget – a car free area that is one of the world’s finest shopping venues.
It is bounded on the West by The City Hall Square (Danish: Radhuspladsen) and on the East by The King’s New Square (Kongens Nytorv).
This is a little misleading as the area is a collection of streets. It’s fun to just wander a bit, window shop or visit some of the world-class stores.
Aamanns – L: M-Sa, D: M-F, Øster Farimagsgade 10, 45 35 55 33 44 is our choice for herring.
Our first choice is the herring in browned butter, chives, horseradish, shallots and rye crumbs or the apple marinated herring with buckwheat, crème fraiche, licorice and pearl onions.
A really good Smorrebrod choice is the smoked salmon, smoked cheese, cucumbers and radish. Another is the shrimps, cabbage, preserved green tomatoes and buttermilk.
Our wine is the ’09 Amara Viognier. Dessert is rhubarb, white chocolate and licorice.
This afternoon you are going to school to see the Botanical Garden & Museum – May-Sept: 8:30-6, Oct-April: Tu-Su: 8:30-4, University of Copenhagen, Gothersgade 128, 45 35322222
The gardens have more than 13,000 species arranged in different sections. Danish plants number 600 species, perennials have 1,100 species and annuals have 1,100.
Additional features include rock gardens, a conifer hill and a rhododendron garden.
There are 27 greenhouses. The Palm House is the largest, and it boasts an 1824 Palm plus a collection of cycads and cacti. Other greenhouses contain orchids and begonias.
Let’s walk over to see the “Little Mermaid” – Langelinie on the harbor
She is based on the fairy tale by Hans Christian Andersen. She is the most popular tourist attraction in Denmark, and one of the most photographed sculptures in the world.
Carl Jacobson, a son of the founder of Carlsberg, commissioned Edvard Eriksen to create a bronze statue in 1909 of the ballerina Ellen Price. She has been guarding the harbor since 1913.
Dinner is at Kiin Kiin – D: M-Sa, Guldbergsgade 21, 45 35 35 75 55
We like the spicy salad with lobster and mint or the white asparagus with red curry and shrimps followed by the calf with tamarind and lemon grass or the beef with oyster sauce and Thai ginger.
Your wine is the ’11 Riesling by Alfer Holle. Dessert is the banana with caramel.
Day Two: We like the breakfast at Bang & Jensen – B & L: Daily, Istedgade 130, 45 3325 5318
It has a cozy, relaxed atmosphere and outside tables. After our coffee we have several choices including cereal, croissants, Danish specialties, eggs and so forth.
Cousin Ingrid insists that we visit The Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek (Glypto-, from the Greek root glyphein, to carve and theke, a storing-place) – Tu-Su: 11-5, Dantes Plads 7, 45 33 41 81 41
On March 8, 1888 Carl Jacobsen donated his collection to the Danish State and the City of Copenhagen on the condition that they provided a suitable building for its exhibition.
The Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek’s collections comprise more than 10,000 works of art.
The museum is known for its antique sculpture from Egypt, Rome and Greece plus more recent works by Rodin and Degas. Several pieces by the Norwegian-Danish sculptor Stephan Sinding are scattered throughout the museum.
It is also noted for it’s collection of French impressionists and Post impressionists with works by Jacques-Louis David, Monet, Renoir, Degas, Pissarro Cezanne, van Gogh, Toulouse-Lautrec and Bonnard.
Lunch is at Restaurant Amalie – L: M-Sa, Amaliegade 11, 33 12 8810
We love this place because its sooo Danish. For instance, order the pickled herring served with onions, capers and fresh dill and they suggest a pairing of FUR ale and Braunstein Golden Aquavit.
With the fried plaice fillet, tartar sauce and lemon the suggestion is a FUR draft and Bornholmer aquavit. Their homemade liver pate comes with boiled beef and onions on rye.
Dessert is homemade chocolate cake and vanilla ice cream. Their beverage recommendation is the FUR barley wine and Schumacher’s cinnamon/vanilla schnapps.
We start our afternoon with a visit to Rosenborg Castle & Gardens – Feb-April: Tu-Su: 10-4, May: 10-4, June-August: 10-5, Sept-Oct: 10-4, Nov-Dec: 10-2, Øster Voldgade 4A, 45 33 15 32 86
Rosenborg Castle was inhabited by the royal family until 1720. Since 1838 the castle and its contents have been a historical museum.
The main attraction at Rosenborg is the Great Hall with the coronation throne which is guarded by three silver lions.
In the Great Hall you will also find the famous Rosenborg tapestries which have hung here since 1693. In the castle’s cellar you will find three treasuries that include crowns and the crown jewels.
The Rosenborg Castle Garden, also know as “The King’s Garden”, is Denmark’s oldest royal garden built in the Renaissance style by Christian IV.
Let’s walk with the Royal Guards to Amalienborg Palace – Amalienborg, 1257 København K, 45 33 12 21 86, the winter home of the Danish royal family.
The changing of the guard takes place at 12:00 noon. The route varies. There are three types of watches: King’s watch, lieutenant watch and palace watch.
Amalienborg Palace is made up of four identical buildings, and we can visit Christian VIII’s Palace which houses the Amalienborg Museum of the Royal Glücksburg family. In the middle of the palace square there is a statue of King Frederik V from 1771.
After all of these noble visits we are going to Tivoli Gardens – April-Sept: Daily: 11-11, Vesterbrogade 3, 45 33 15 10 01
The 169 year-old amusement garden is an oasis in the heart of Copenhagen – a mixture of new and old, amusements and culture that include performing artists, fireworks, live music, pantomime theatre and the Tivoli Boys Guard.
Tivoli was conceived by Georg Carstensen who said “Tivoli will never be completed”, meaning Tivoli is constantly changing.
Old buildings are replaced or modernized, new rides are introduced, new entertainment concepts are presented to meet the ever-changing demands of the public.
Many think that Tivoli was the inspiration for Disney’s parks.
As we enjoy this wonderful park let’s make a stop at the Apollo Brewery, Denmark’s first microbrewery.
Dinner is at the Kødbyens Fiskebar – D: Nightly, Flæsketorvet 100, 45 32155656
You’ll love the oysters on the half shell, and here they have a great selection from four different seas. A glass of ’12 Chablis is a nice pairing.
They also have Scottish razor clams served with fennel, hazelnuts and tarragon.
The mussels are steamed in apple cider and herbs. The brill is seared and presented with shrimp, celeriac, hazelnuts and lovage, and the Pollack is fried in seaweed butter.
Enjoy the ’06 Piedmonte Barberesco with this course. Dessert is the white chocolate with lavender and pinenuts.
Day Three: Dag H – B,L,D: Daily, Dag Hammarskjold Alle 38, 35 27 63 00 is our breakfast choice.
The barista is here at 8 AM. They have blue berries, hazelnuts and almonds to top our muesli.
The scrambled eggs come with bacon and the organic omelets have spring onions, dates, tomato, parmesan and chives.
This morning our Cousin Long John is taking us to Kronborg Castle also known as Elsinor Castle – Jan-Mar: Tu-Su: 11-4, April-May: 11-4, June-Aug: 10-5:30, Sept,, Oct: 11-4, Nov, Dec: Tu-su: 11-4, Kronborg 2C, 3000 Helsingør, 45 49 21 30 78
Kronborg Castle is located on a strategically important site commanding the Sund, the stretch of water between Denmark and Sweden.
The Royal castle of Kronborg at Helsingør (Elsinore) is of immense symbolic value to the Danish people, and played a key role in the history of northern Europe in the 16th -18th centuries.
The castle itself is a Renaissance building with four wings surrounding a spacious courtyard. The bright sandstone facades are characterized by horizontal bands, and the front walls are balanced by towers and spires.
The castle is extensively and richly decorated with sandstone ornaments in unique and imaginative designs. The Great Hall (the banqueting hall) is one of the most exquisite rooms from this time – and the largest of its kind in Northern Europe.
Kronborg is known worldwide as Elsinore Castle and the scene of William Shakespeare’s tragedy of Hamlet providing the setting where the story would unfold.
Café Europa – B,L,D: Daily, 1160 Kobenhavn K, 45 33 14 28 89 is your place for a light lunch.
You’ll love their open faced sandwiches on light or dark bread. Favorites are the chicken salad with asparagus & bacon, the fish fillet with rémoulade and the egg and hand-peeled shrimps with dill mayonnaise.
Another popular choice is the steak tartare with mustard and cognac served with potato rösti, poached egg & tarragon dressing.
A Tuborg or two will aid digestion.
Back to the Arken Musuem of Art – Tu-Su: 10-5, W: till 9, Skovvej 100, 2635 Ishøj, 45 43 54 02 22
The Arken Museum of Modern Art is one of the recent Danish cultural investments. Arken has worked hard at enhancing the quality of its appeal and it is firmly established among its peers in the national and international circle of museums.
The Arken’s acquisitions include a wide variety of photographic and graphic holdings from the 1980s and onwards by Danish and international artists.
Painting and sculpture are well represented with works by Jean Arp, Tito Baungartel, Peter Bonde, Damien Hirst, Andreas Golder and many others.
Finally we visit the Thorvaldsens Museum – Tu-Su: 10-5, 2 Bertel Thorvaldsens Plads, 45 33 32 15 32
Bertel Thorvaldsen (1770-1844) is one of Denmark’s best known artists. For more than 40 years he lived in Rome where he was an important European representative of Neo-Classicist sculptural art.
The Museum opened on September 18, 1848. It houses nearly all of the sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen’s original models for the sculptures he created. His collection of antiques and his large international collection of contemporary art are on the museum’s first floor.
Yourl Danish dining experience today is at Host – D: Nightly, North Farimagsgade 41, 45 89 93 84 09
Choose the Norwegian lobster, sea buckthorn, juniper cream, roasted hazelnuts and browned butter or the lamb tounge, sweet breads, pickled beech mushrooms and mushroom sauce for a starter.
For your main you’ll like the rib eye with mustard mayonnaise, fried baby gem lettuce, North-sea cheese and watercress.
Your wine is the ‘12 Savigny Les Beaune Les Gollardes. And dessert is the Birch bark ice cream with chestnut and vanilla caramel.
Until next time, best wishes and happy travels,
Dick & Dee Welge
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