Hello Fellow Travelers:
Welcome to our world of business information, museums, adventure, birding, botanical gardens, dining and fine wines. This newsletter provides you with “The Welge Report for Lima.
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Recognition: We extend special thanks to the people who manage and/or own the institutions, museums and restaurants featured in our guides. In some instances we have relied on their descriptions and photos.
Birding Opps: Info for our birding friends. Here you will see: Inca Tern, Peruvian Booby, Belcher’s Gull, Peruvian Pelican, Humboldt Penguin and Guanay and Red-legged Cormorants.
At Ecologistica Peru (ecologisticaperu.com) you’ll find great information and a broad range of tours.
Here’s where to find your Birding Pals (birdingpal.org/Peru.htm) in Lima.
Kolibri Expeditions (kolibriexpeditions.com) offers exotic birding tours on an attractive website.
Transportation: Check out this site for the subway and train guides for Lima: (www.limaeasy.com/getting-around-lima/public-transport-in-lima)
Business Information: Here is help in regard to your business: (http://www.expatperu.com/doing-business-in-lima.php)
U.S. Embassy: (http://lima.usembassy.gov)
Exchange Rates (http://www.x-rates.com/)
Food terminology: Tiradito is a Peruvian dish of raw fish in a spicy sauce.
Day One: You are on your way to the Museo de la Nacion – Tu-Su: 9-5:30, Avenida Javier Prado Este 2466, 51 1 4769878
The Museum of the Nation houses thousand of artifacts spanning the entire civilization of Peru, including a collection of Moche, Nazca and Wari ceramics plus ancient Andean artifacts including the Lanzon from Chavin de Huantar and the famous Revolt of the Objects Mural.
The 6th floor houses the photographic exhibit Yuyanapaq Para Recordar. This exhibit was created by the Truth and Reconciliation Commission to document the internal conflict in Peru that occurred from 1980 to 2000.
Next let’s visit the Church of San Francisco – Daily 9:30-5:45, Jr. Ancash 471, 51-(0)1-427-1381
The Church of San Francisco was built in the baroque-style of the late 1600s. San Francisco has several gilded side altars and an impressive lattice dome.
The adjoining monastery has a superb collection of ancient religious texts, some of which were brought over by the first wave of Spanish priests after the conquest of the Incas.
The main attraction is its catacombs. The catacombs were actually part of Lima’s original cemeteries which were built under churches.
An estimated 75,000 bodies are buried under San Francisco, and many of the remains are exposed, stacked in strange patterns in circular stone pits.
Lunch today is at Central Restaurante – L: M-F, D: M-Sa, Santa Isabel 376 Miraflores, 51 1 242851
Choices for a starter are the charred octopus with lentils and olives or the baby goat with tomatoes and onions.
Enjoy a glass of ’07 Cinta Purpura Reserva Brut with either of these.
For your main course we suggest the rabbit ragout, the suckling goat or the seabass.
The ’08 Chardonnay Bramere Marchiori Vineyard Perdriel was be a nice match.
You can step way back in history when you visit Huaca Pucllana – W-M: 9-5, Gral. Borgono – Cuadra. 8 s/n, 511 445-8695
Huaca Pucllana was the epicenter of the Lima Culture that ruled over the Chancay, Chillón, Rímac and Lurín valleys from the 3rd until the 8th century AD.
Huaca Pucllana was the touchstone that ignited and then led the cultural growth of the area prior to the dominance of the Huari (Wari) culture that eventually replaced it.
This site originally had a number of smaller pyramids and plazas that grew as each generation added to it. The administrative area was made up of a number of patios, platforms and storage facilities.
The agriculture and food management of the area was the primary concern of the governing body of holy bureaucrats and the administration of these affairs would have taken part in the more secular part of the site.
Agriculture and food supply would have been religiously significant. The worship of ancestors and the gods was linked to the success or failure of the crops and the bounty of the sea.
Taxation of farmers and fishermen occurred here, and the commodities they provided were part of the ritual offerings given at the great pyramid.
The importance of the sea to the Lima Culture is apparent through the artwork on the ceramics recovered at the site. Marine motifs were the dominant decorations and imagery of various sea creatures can be found on most of the pottery.
Huaca Pucllana is so interesting we suggest staying for dinner. They have wonderful food.
Your choices for an appetizer include: fried shrimp with a quinoa crust and a sweet soy and sesame sauce, corn tamales with garlic and cilantro or crab claws stuffed with shrimp in a lemon and five spice sauce.
Enjoy a Pisco Sour with your starter.
Move on to their classic tiradito of sole marinated in lemon and chilli served with corn and sweet potatoes or the ceviche Pucllana -fish, shrimp, octopus and scallops marinated in lemon and yellow chillis served with yucca sticks.
Then your choices get difficult. It’s either the sea bass with a mushroom sauce and a lentil and rice “tacu-tacu” or the stuffed chicken breast with a garlic and leek risotto.
A bottle of the ’09 Chardonnay Alta Valle de Uco would be perfect. For dessert go for the chocolate volcano with hazelnut ice cream and a sesame tuile.
Day Two: Breakfast is at Café Haiti – B,L,D: Daily, Diagonal 160, Miraflores, 446-3816
You don’t need the menu, just order the “Desayuno Americano,” it’s awesome.
You get eggs with toast, several options of juice plus a cup of their awesome coffee. Entertainment is right in front of you.
We found a visit to the Barranco to be stimulating and suggest that you explore the area.
The Barranco is one of 43 districts in Lima. It is considered to be the city’s most romantic and bohemian.
It is home for Peru’s leading artists, musicians and designers. In the 19th century it was a fashionable beach resort for the Limeno aristocracy.
There is a beautiful walkway to the sea that runs through Barranco, called the Bajada de los Baños.
Crossing over this walkway is the Puente de los Suspiros, or Bridge of Sighs. The bridge is a famous meeting place for lovers, and has a lovely view towards the sea and the Ermita church.
While in Barranco be sure to visit The Museo de Arte Contemporáneo (MAC) – Tu-Su: 10-5, Av. Miguel Grau, Barranco,
The current exhibition focuses on the relationship between the 13 artists and how Lima has influenced their work.
It features four distinctly themed sections each with its own curator, which allows for a variety of unique perspectives on the artists’ works in a variety of different mediums including sculptures, photographs, videos, and embroidery.
By unraveling the intricate and multifaceted lifestyles, perspectives, and values, the artists and curators help shed new light on the realities that exist within the fourth largest city in the Americas.
Lunch is at Cebicheria La Mar – B,L,D: Daily, Av. La Mar 770, Miraflores, 421-3365
You are here for the tiraditos and the cebiches, and this is one of the best places in the world to enjoy them. Peru is the land of cebiche. Your waiter will help you through the menu.
They have Japanese rolls and plates that you can share. They have grilled seafood, whole fish and pasta. Drinks and an extensive wine list are available.
Next we suggest a visit to the incomparable Larco Museum – Daily: 9-6, Av Simón Bolivar 1515, Pueblo Libre, 51 1 4611312
The Larco Museum showcases remarkable chronological galleries providing an excellent overview on 3000 years of development of Peruvian pre-Columbian history.
It features the finest gold and silver collection from Ancient Peru and the famous erotic archaeological collection. Its masterpieces are considered worldwide icons of Pre-Columbian art.
Dinner tonight is the extravaganza at the world renown Astrid y Gaston – L & D: M-Sa, Cantuarias 175, Miraflores District, 2424422
They offer a prix fixe but in the interest of your financial well being we suggest an a la carte approach.
Start with the crispy octopus with lightly sautéed white asparagus and Peruvian olives. Then have the alpaca tartar three ways: first is with a bit of hot sauce topped with a quail egg, second is with wasabi and the third has some heat from Thai chiles and sweetness from mango.
Next is the cuy (guinea pig) Peking style with a purple corn crepe wrapper topped with a thin slice of caramel and match sticks of carrot, cucumber and capsicum.
Your server will have beverage suggestions, but a wine that we would suggest is the Uruguayan Pisano Tannat.
For dessert your petit four includes: lucuna tuile, pumpkin cake, mango with basil and camu camu jelly.
Day Three: Breakfast is at La Tiendecita Blanca – B,L,D: Daily, Av. Larco 111, Miraflores, 445-9797
You can enjoy a plate of assorted Migas, traditional Peruvian tea sandwiches served with a variety of fillings.
All of the breads, tarts, empanadas, and pastries are made on-site in the restaurant’s subterranean bakery.
The menu offers a wide selection of egg dishes along with a nice choice of side dishes such as fried bacon, fresh fruit salad and toasted breads with house-made jams.
Specialties include the Omelet La Tiendecita Blanca which consists of bacon, ham and Roquefort cheese.
Super Energético is a hearty and delicious combination of ground linseed, sesame powder, oats, raisins, and nuts topped with grated apple served with yogurt and honey.
Also for breakfast are the beautiful three inches high Pasteles prepared with different fillings. You might enjoy the Pastel de Acelga, Tart of Swiss Chard. The pastry is light and tender.
A Peruvian favorite on the menu is the green chicken tamales with criollo sauce. These chicken tamales are some of the best to be found in the city.
Our cousin suggests a walkabout for the Government Palace and the Plaza de Armas - North side of Plaza de Armas, to see the interior you need to contact the office at +51-(0)1-311-3908
The Government Palace is the official residence and offices of Peru’s President, and the changing of the Palace Guards happens at noon daily. Pizzaro not only lived here, he also died here.
The Cathedral of Lima and the Archbishop’s Palace are also on the Plaza de Armas.
Your last cultural stop is The Museo Nacional de Arqueología Antropología e Historia del Perú – Tu-Sa: 9-4, Su: 9-3, Plaza Bolivar S/N, 51 1 4635070
The MNAAHP permanent exhibition presents the development of Peru’s society in a chronological sequence spanning from the first settlers to their Republican era.
It has the largest collection of ceramics from ancient Peru, stone objects, an important collection of brass with gold, silver and precious stones ranging from the first settlers to the Inca period.
From Colonial and Republican periods there is an important collection of paintings and objects.
This meal is at Amaz – L & D: Daily, Avenue La Paz 1079 – Miraflores, 221 -9880
At Amaz the food is from the Peruvian-Amazon. An interesting starter is the hearts of palm salad with Chinese-Peruvian fried rice or the churos pishpirones which are giant Amazon snails with a spicy chorizo sauce and tapioca pearls.
Another possibility is the braised rabbit with white wine, olives and potato flakes. One of the most characteristic fish in Amazonian fare is paiche whose meat is white, dense and lean.
Here it is served in grilled chunks over pureed aquaie fruit and topped with sweet peppers and chorizo sauce.
Until next time, best wishes and safe travels,
Dick & Dee Welge
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