Hello Fellow Travelers:
Welcome to our world of business information, museums, adventure, birding, botanical gardens, dining and fine wines. This newsletter provides you with “The Welge Report for Santiago.
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Recognition: We extend special thanks to the people who manage and/or own the institutions, museums and restaurants featured in our guides. In some instances we have relied on their descriptions and photos.
Birding Opps: Info for our birding friends. This is where you can see the yellow-headed rockfowl, the Bell Miner and the Monk Parakeet.
The Urban Birder (theurbanbirder.com/urban-birding/santiago/) is a very good all purpose birding reference.
Here’s where to find your Birding Pals in Santiago (birdingpal.org/Chile.htm)
This is an interesting report for our more adventurous birders (http://10000birds.com/birding-santiago-de-chile-trip-report.htm).
Grape Experience – Chile grows most of the major varietals, whites (Chardonnay, Riesling and Viognier) are planted in greater amounts than the reds.
Chile’s signature grape is Carmenere. Carmenere is the deepest, darkest, purple of all red grapes and needs a long growing season to reach its full potential.
It’s rich in fruit and spice (think blackberries and black pepper), with smooth, well-rounded tannins, making it a very pleasing and easy to drink varietal.
Enjoy it with red meats and corn-based dishes, such as Chile’s favorite pastel de choclo (corn and meat pie), or take advantage of its natural fruity spiciness and serve it up with Indian curry or a Mexican mole.
Transportation: Here’s the info you need for public transportation (internations.org/santiago-de-chile-expats/guide/living-in-santiago-de-chile-15842/public-transport-in-santiago-2)
Shopping: Check out this site for shopping in Santiago (contactchile.cl/en/chile-santiago-shopping.php)
U.S. Embassy (http://chile.usembassy.gov/)
Exchange Rates (http://www.x-rates.com/
Day One: Start your journey at the Plaza de Armas – Compañía de Jesús, Santiago Metropolitan Region, 56 2 671 4436
The Plaza de Armas is the heart and soul of Santiago. The design was created by Pedro de Gamboa in the mid-16th century.
Surrounding the square are the Metropolitan Cathedral of Santiago, the Central Post Office building, and the Palacio de la Real Audiencia de Santiago which is the seat of the local government.
Our next stop is the Museum of Memory and Human Rights – Tu-Su: 10-6, Matucana 501, 562 365 11 65
The Museum of Memory and Human Rights is a space dedicated to raising awareness of the human rights violations committed by the State of Chile between 1973 and 1990, dignify the victims and their families and stimulate reflection and debate about the importance of respect and tolerance so that these events never recur.
Through artifacts, documents and files employing different media and formats you will come to know the story behind the museum’s creation: the coup, the suppression of later years, resistance, exile and solidarity international reparation policies.
Displays and files include oral and written testimony, legal documents, letters, stories, literature, print materials, audiovisual and radio, feature films, documentaries, historical material and photographs.
Today lunch is at El Hoyo - L & D: M-Sa, San Vicente 375, 56 0 2 689 0339
Start with a Pisco Sour or the local favorite: the Terremoto that is also called “Earthquake” which is made with white wine, pisco, pineapple ice cream and sugar.
Snacks include: hard boiled eggs, pickled onions and olives. Portions here are large so you might want to consider sharing the arrollado which is thinly sliced and interestingly spiced pork loin or the steak with frites and onions.
The Museo Chileno de Arte Pre-Columbino – Tu-Sa: 10-6, Su: 10-2, Bandera 361, 562 928 1500
The Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino is dedicated to the study and display of pre-Columbian art and artifacts from Central and South America.
Items in the museum’s collection come from pre-Columbian areas of Mesonamerica, Intermediate/Isthmo-Colombian, Pan-Caribbean, Amazonia and the Andes spanning 10,000 years
The collection is divided into four areas: Area Mesoamerica covering the Teotihucan and the Mayan, Area Intermedia that includes pottery from the Valdivia people and Capuli figures, the Area Andes Centrales that has masks and copper figures by the Moche and textiles from the Chavin culture and Area Andres del Sur that has modern Chilean and Argentinian urns and other artifacts.
Let’s have some fun and visit Urbn Stgo – Located in San Miguel in the south of the city, this is a hidden gem of urban art…….. Museo Cielo Abierto en San Miguel contains over 35 murals, each 4 stories high and approximately 12m wide.
The residents are in the process of making the world’s largest open air museum.
First created in 2010 by David Selknam, it is an ongoing project designed to improve the community with a selection of artists from around the world including Mono Gonzales, Payo, Inti, Seth and many, many more. It is definitely a must while in STGO.
Take the yellow line Metro to Departemental. When exiting the station take the left out of the ticket office and go up to ground level. Turn right onto Tristan Matta, follow this for 5-10 mins walking.
You will reach San Miguel open air museum when you notice a communist style architecture of apartment blocks. The area is perfectly safe, but it is recommended to go in daylight.
Prepare your self for a feast at Osaka – L & D: M-Sa, 4th Fl, W Hotel, Isadora Goyenchea, 5 60 2 770 0000
Chef Watanabe blends cuisines from Peru, Thailand, China and Japan. By all means start with the ceviche or the sushi.
Then choose between the teriyaki balsamic sirloin or the Nippon-style confit duck. There is a huge wine list plus several sake offerings.
Day Two – Start your adventures today at Cafe Melba – B & L: Daily 2898 Don Carlos, 02-232-4546
French toast with real maple syrup, banana, pineapple, and the best crispy bacon you can find in Santiago or the Eggs Benedict which can be ordered with bacon, ham, or smoked salmon plus really good coffee and teas.
The Palacio de Bellas Artes– Tu-Su: 10-6:50, Parque Forestal s / n. Casilla, 56-2 49 91 600
The NMFA showcases Chilean art collections from Colonial times to the present day, totaling more than five thousand pieces. These are exhibited through the permanent exhibition.
It is home to one of the world’s largest collections of paintings, sculptures and tapestries of renowned artist Jean Lucrat.
Nearby is the Museo Arte Contemporaneo – Tu-Sa: 11-7, Su: 11-6, Forest Park n/s Mosquito Road, 56 2 9771 741
The MAC collection consists of 2600 pieces featuring paintings, sculptures, works on paper, engravings, photographs, drawings, watercolors, tempera and mixed media plus tapestries, ceramics and enamels on metal .
The works span a long period of artistic production ranging from the late nineteenth century to the present, but predominantly works of mid-twentieth century.
Native artists shown include: Roberto Matta, Samuel Roman, Jose Balmes, Marta Colvin and Rodolfo Opazo plus Oswaldo Guayasamin (Ecuador), Emilio Pettoruti (Argentina), Alejandro Obregón (Colombia), Hundertwasser (Austria) and Isamu Noguchi (United States).
Luguria is a happening and you’re here for lunch – L & D: M-Sa, Luis Thayer Ojeda 019, Providence Metro Tobaloba, 562 235 7914
Here’s a menu that we would like to try everything from the lasagna with roasted sea urchins to the flash-fried chicken in a spicy garlic sauce with braised vegetables or the rump roast in a red wine sauce.
It all goes well with a bottle of the Tres Palacio Carmenere.
The Museo de Artes Visuales – Tu-Th,Su: 10:30-6:30, F,Sa: 11-7:30, Jose Victorino Aubrey 307 Square Mulato Gil de Castro, 56 2 2664 93 37
MAV has some of the finest collections of contemporary Chilean art. Featured are paintings and sculptures by Roberto Matta, Arturo Duclos, Gonzalo Cienfuegos, Roser Bru, José Balmes and Eugenio Dittborn.
Your admission fee includes entrance to The Archaeological Museum of Santiago located on the top floor.
Here you will see Pre-Columbian art, everyday and ceremonial textiles, pottery, basketry, jewelry and wood carvings created by The Aymara, Mapuche and Pascuense Fuegian Chilean civilizations.
Time for a visit to the “place of god”, or as it’s also known San Cristóbal Hill. You can get there by foot, by car via the road joining the Santiago Metropolitan Park or the Santiago Cable Car.
On its summit there is a sanctuary dedicated to the Immaculate Conception, a large statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary, an amphitheater and a chapel.
We have seen a lot of sites today so for dinner let’s kick back and enjoy some French nibbles and wine at Baco – L & D: M-Sa, Nueva de Lyon 113, 56 0 2 231 4444
Many think this is the best wine bar in Santiago, and I’m one of them. You can try several different wines by the glass.
Here are some that caught our attention: Gillmore Cabernet Franc, Odfjeld Orzada Carignan and the Casablanca Valley Pinot Noir.
The nibbles include crepes, quiches, salads, salmon tartare, oysters, foie gras, cheeses and a wonderful duck confit.
Day Three: Before we take off for Valparaiso we need to have a late breakfast at Fuente Alemana – Libertador Bernando O’Higgins, 56 0 2 639 3231
You’re having the famous lomito with everything. That includes a slab of beef and pork on a roll with avocado, mayo, cheese and sauerkraut. See below.
We strongly suggest a day trip to Valparaiso. Founded in 1536 Valparaiso served as a major stopover for ships traveling between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans before the opening of the Panama Canal.
It was known as “Little San Francisco” and “The Jewel of the Pacific”. In its glory days it had Latin America’s oldest stock exchange, the continent’s first fire department, Chile’s first public library and the oldest Spanish language newspaper.
After the opening of the Panama Canal the port of Valparaiso’s use and traffic declined significantly. However, today it’s making a comeback.
The housing is colorful and the views are spectacular. Several funiculars have been restored, and enable locals and tourists to access the hilly setting.
Antique street cars are also a fun conveyance. Many people form Santiago, Europe and elsewhere are buying properties for investment and second homes.
A popular place to visit is La Sebastiana (Pablo Neruda’s House) – Tu-Su: 10-6, Calle Ricardo de Ferrari 692, 56 32 225 6606
In 1971 Pablo Neruda was awarded the Nobel Prize in Literature. Today this house is the “La Sebastiana Museum” located in the Florida Hill of Valparaiso and opened to public.
In each of its five stories visitors will discover the lifestyle and the most glorious and absurd moments of its owner.
So what about dining in Valparaiso? La Caperucita y el Lobo – B,L,D: Daily, Ferrari 75 Cerro Florida, 0 32 3172 798
Start with a glass of Bodega Zuccardi Fusion Brut to go with your fish cebiche, purple onions, red pepper cilantro and ginger or the oysters with parsley and bacon foam.
Then have the crab cake and potato croquette with onion and basil or the risotto with Serrano ham and mushrooms.
The Santa Ema Barrel Select Syrah is a good match. For dessert you might like the carrot cake with white chocolate sprinkled with cardamom or pain perdue.
Until next time, best wishes and hasta luego,
Dick & Dee Welge
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