Hello Fellow Travelers:
Welcome to our world of business information, museums, adventure, birding, botanical gardens, dining and fine wines. This newsletter provides you with “The Welge Report for Shanghai.
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Recognition: We extend special thanks to the people who manage and/or own the institutions, museums and restaurants featured in our guides. In some instances we have relied on their descriptions and photos.
Birding Opps: Info for our birding friends. Here you will see: Japanese Quail, Mandarin Duck,Baikal Teal, Little Curlew,Spoon-billed Sandpiper, Nordmann’s Greenshank, Hooded Crane, Saunders’s Gull, Relict Gull, Chinese Egret, Black-faced Spoonbill, Fairy Pitta and Chestnut-cheeked Starling.
The Wild Bird Society of Shanghai (shwbs.org) offers up-to-date birding info.
Our friends at Birding Pal (birdingpal.org/China.htm) have contacts in the Shanghai area.
Alpine Birding (alpinebirding.com) is a good source for info on the Yangtze River estuary.
Transportation: For public transportation in Shanghai check out this website: (travelchinaguide.com)
Business Information: (http://export.gov/china/)
U.S. Embassy: 1469 Huai Hai Zhong Road, (http://shanghai.usembassy-china.org.cn/)
Day One: Visit the Jade Buddha Temple – Open Daily: 8:10-4:30, No. 170 Anyuan road Putuo district, north-west of Shanghai
The Jade Buddha Temple is famed for its sparkling and crystal-clear white jade Buddhist statues. The more impressive of the two is the seated Buddha (6 feet 5 inches) tall, decorated with semi-precious stones.
The other statue is a serene and beautiful Reclining Buddha about (3 feet 4 inches) long. At the temple, there are many other priceless masterpieces – such as paintings and Buddhist scriptures throughout the different halls.
Lunch is at Mr. & Mrs. Bund – L: M-F, D; Nightly, 18 Zhongshan East 1st Rd, 021-63239898
Usually, we recommend sharing an appetizer, not here. Start with the char-grilled cold chicken breast with garlic mayonnaise or the beef tartare composed of hand-cut beef filet with olive oil, lemon juice, pesto, arugula and parmigiano.
Wash it down with glasses of Duval-Leroy Fleur de Champagne Brut.
For your entree try the black cod fish simmered in a heat proof bag with Cantonese sauce or the beef short ribs with a bordelaise sauce, roasted ceps and beef marrow.
With the fish we suggest the Gerard Bertrand Gene San Rose and for the beef go with a Medoc – La Tour Cordouan. Dessert is the Lemon & Lemon Tart.
After this memorable lunch check out the Shanghai Museum – Daily: 9-5, 201 Renmin Avenue, People’s Square
The Shanghai Museum is the city’s official temple to Chinese culture.
Highlights include a ceramics collection and its Tang Dynasty (618-907) tomb guardians, including a ferocious beast that seems part dragon, tiger, horse and goat.
The museum houses galleries for paintings, ancient bronzes, jade sculptures and calligraphy.
Upstairs is an arresting parade of embroidered costumes crafted by the country’s ethnic minorities, as well as painted Tibetan ceremonial masks covered with skulls and feathers.
Our Cousin highly recommends Cuivre for dinner tonight – D: W-M, Br: Sa,Su, 1502 Middle Huaihai Road, 86-21-64374219
Start with the warm duck gizzard and bacon mixed salad with a white balsamico and Beijing dressing or the snails in garlic butter with tomato concasse and roasted pancetta.
Then choose either the grilled rack of lamb with baked eggplant, basil and pesto or the Australian blue mussels cooked with spicy sausage, bell pepper and juicy tomato.
I think the Burg Layer, Schlosskapelle Kabinett would be a good pairing. And for dessert, it’s the home made crème brulee with vanilla, mango and passion fruit.
Day Two: For breakfast it’s Baker & Spice – B,L,D: Daily, First Floor, Shanghai Centre, 1376
Here you can indulge in Danish pastries (the owner is a Dane), Turkish pide (I don’t know how this got on the menu), cupcakes (see above), multi-grain breads, imported coffees and wines from all over the world.
We recommend a side trip to Suzhou which enjoys the reputation as “The City of Gardens” with elegant gardens and beautiful landscapes. Your visit can include a short ride on a bullet train and an excursion on the Grand Canal.
Barges plying the Grand Canal have knit China together for 14 centuries, carrying grain, soldiers, and ideas between the economic heartland in the south and the political capitals in the north.
The “Grand Canal” is second to the “Great Wall” in importance in China. Actually, it’s probably first because of its utility.
The Grand Canal was first designed and used by an Emperor Yang of the Sui dynasty to commute from Shanghai to Beijing.
After this entertaining Grand Canal journey we suggest visiting the Wangshi (Master of the Fishing Net) Garden.
It was built in 1140 and has been beautifully preserved. If you don’t get to China you can see a reproduction at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City.
Lunch is at Lost Heaven Yunnan Folk Cuisine – L & D: Daily, No. 17 Yan’an Dong Road, 021 63300967
Here you can enjoy the cuisines of the Dai, Hua Yao and Miao ethnic hill tribes along the ‘Ancient Tea Horse Trail’ from Lhasa through China’s southern Yunnan province and into Burma and Laos. We suggest sharing several dishes to get the full effect.
Our selections include: Da Li style chicken with chili and green onions, simmered vegetables in tamarind juice, crab cakes, Burmese prawns with tomato sauce or pineapple juice, steamed cod with black bean sauce, crispy chicken and pork in a lettuce wrapping.
For your wine choice The Warwick Estate, The First Lady would compliment these dishes.
After lunch take a walk along The Bund. It’s an important attraction in Shanghai.
It is a waterfront area in central Shanghai that centers on a section of Zhongshan Road within the former Shanghai International Settlement, which runs along the western bank of the Huangpu River, facing Pudong.
The Bund refers to the buildings and wharves on this section of the road. It is one of the most famous tourist destinations in Shanghai.
You can also see this area in a two hour Shanghai Huangpu River Night Cruise that is very interesting with gorgeous views of the Shanghai skyline that reminds one of the Las Vegas strip.
The Pudong area has great lighting and architecture. It was all built in the last 2 decades.
Near the Nanjing Road intersection stands the only bronze statue along the Bund. It is a statue of Chen Yi, the first Communist mayor of Shanghai. At the northern end of The Bund along the riverfront is Huangpu Park, in which is situated the Monument to the People’s Heroes - a tall, abstract concrete tower.
The monument is a memorial for those who died during the revolutionary struggle of Shanghai dating back to the First Opium War.
With the exception of breakfast we don’t recommend hotel restaurants. However, Xindalu China Kitchen in the Hyatt on the Bund is an exception. – L & D: Daily, 199 Huang Pu Road, 86 21 6393 1234 * 6318
This is Shanghai’s premier spot for Beijing duck. Each bird is fired with red dates and green apple wood in special Beijing-style ovens so that the restaurant’s specialty has some real authentic flavor.
They’ve also got some great Shanghai and Hangzhou-style fare if you’re looking for something more local, other options are the delicious Beggar’s Chicken and the Pyramid Braised Pork. A Blueridge Merlot would work well.
Our Cousin recommends booking in to the Cloud Peaking Acrobatic Troupe.
Their performance venue is at Shanghai Cloud Peak Theater at 7:30. No.1700, West Beijing Rd.
Day Three: Breakfast today is at the Sunflower Bakery & Café – B,L,D: Daily, 6473 7757, 1/F, Anfu Court, 308 Anfu Lu
Here you can have an English breakfast with all of the traditional accoutrements: bacon, sausage, eggs, beans and sourdough toast.
Sunflower has the best croissants in Shanghai plus other baked goods, including baguettes and sweet pain au chocolates.
Today you should visit the Shanghai Art Museum - Daily: 9-5, 325 West Nanjing Rd
The museum is divided into eleven galleries and three exhibition halls. The eleven Galleries cover most of the major categories of Chinese art: Ancient Bronze, Ancient Ceramics, Paintings, Calligraphy, Ancient Sculpture, Ancient Jade, Coins, Ming and Qing Furniture, Seals, and Minority Nationalities.
The Gallery of Chinese Seals reflects the importance of seals in history from the Western Zhou to the end of the Qing Dynasty.
China was one of the earliest countries to use currency, and the nearly 7,000 pieces in the Gallery of Chinese Coins reveal the development of Chinese currency and the growth of economic exchange between China and foreign countries.
While you’re at the museum my Cousin suggests having a meal at Kathleens 5. L & D: Daily, 200 Huang Pu Road, 4th Floor | The Bund, Shanghai, 021-66600989
A good starter is the Mediterranean fish soup with garlic croutons or the pan seared scallops with capers in a Chardonnay wine sauce.
Kathleen does a wonderful risotto in a light shrimp bouillon topped with seared prawns and sea scallops, or you might enjoy the duck breast with a light black pepper plum and black currant sauce. This is accompanied by a small feta cheese salad.
The Long Mountain Chenin Blanc is the right wine choice.
Until next time, best wishes and safe travels,
Dick & Dee Welge
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