Hello Fellow Travelers:
Welcome to our world of business information, museums, adventure, birding, botanical gardens, good eating and fine wines. This newsletter provides you with “The Welge Report for Tel Aviv.
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Recognition: We extend special thanks to the people who manage and/or own the institutions, museums and restaurants featured in our guides. In some instances we have relied on their descriptions and photos.
Birding Opps: Info for our birding friends. In and near Tel Aviv you can see these species: Spur-winged Plover, Hoopoe, Hooded Crow, Cattle Egret, Catti’s Warbler, Red-backed Shrike, Eurasian Jay and Palestine Sunbird.
Charlie gives a report on birding in Hayarkon Park (talking-naturally.co.uk/hayarkon-park-tel-aviv/)
Go Israel (goisrael.com/Tourism_Eng/Articles/Attractions/Pages/Bird%20Watching.aspx) provides background information to support its “birding superpower” status.
At Carmel Birding Tours (carmelbirdingtours.com/commendations.html) you’ll find several option
Alcoholic Beverages: Beer, wine and arak are popular drinks in Israel.
PublicTransportation: This is your site for public transportation (tel-aviv.gov.il/eng/residents/transportation/Pages/PublicTransportation.aspx?tm=1&sm=27&side=28)
Business Information: Here is help in regard to your business: (tel-aviv.gov.il/eng/Business/Pages/StartingBusin.aspx?tm=2&sm=52)
Exchange Rates (http://www.x-rates.com/)
Day One: Your first stop is Old Jaffa. Old Jaffa has had many names, many cultures and a long history stretching back 10,000 years. Since 1950 Jafa has been a part of Tel Aviv.
To get a sense of place you should visit the Old Jaffa Museum of Antiquities - Mifratz Shlomo 10, Old Jaffa, 03- 6825375.
The museum contains archeological findings from the Neolithic age to the Roman-Byzantine era. It has door posts of Raamses II dating to 1274 BC, a 5th century BC burial notice, an 18th century BC transcription by the Assyria King Sanherive.
There are documents describing the Roman-Byzmantic era and the amazing story of their travels back and forth to Oslo.
Nearby is the Nachum Gutman Museum – M-Th: 10-4, F: 10-2, Sa: 10-3, Shimon Rokach 21 Neve Tzedek. Tel Aviv – Jaffa, 03-5161970.
Nachum Gutman was one of Israel’s most well known artists. His body of work was broad. He worked in a variety of media including oils, watercolors, gouache, sculpture, mosaics and engravings.
The building was originally built in 1887 in one of the first neighborhoods outside of Jaffa.
Mizlala – L & D: Daily, Nahalat Binyamin 57, 03 5665505 is your spot for lunch today.
The Palestinian tartar which is chopped rump steak, tehini, pine nuts, yogurt and cumin or the veal carpaccio with Buffalo mozzarella, pickled ginger, coriander, crispy tortilla and artichoke are good starters especially with a glass or two of Golan Heights Gamla Brut.
For your main Cousin Ariel likes the beef and lamb kebab with tomato, eggplant, lemon paste, onion, garlic and Tahini in a curry vinaigrette or the mullet fillet with roasted eggplant, green vegetables and yogurt.
The ’12 Binyamina Shiraz is a good wine choice. Dessert is the chocolate caramel brulee with berries.
Next you can visit the Eretz Israel Musuem – Su-W: 10-4, Th: till 8, F: 10-2, Sa: 10-3, 2 Haim Levanon St., Ramat Aviv, 972 3-641-5244.
The Eretz Israel Museum is a multidisciplinary museum that focuses on the history and culture of Israel through permanent and temporary exhibits in the diverse fields of archeology, ethnography, post and philately, folklore, Judaica, traditional crafts, and popular art, cultural history, and local identity.
The museum is spread over an area of 20 acres and has 15 buildings with various installations.
In the center of the museum is Tell Qasile – an ancient archeological mound dating from the 12th century BC. Additional relics, such as mosaics, oil presses, a wine press, flour mills, etc. can be found in the gardens surrounding the site.
Dinner is at Messa – D: Nightly, HaArba’a St 19,972 3 685 6859.
The purple calamari with lemon cream, relish and foie gras or the veal sweetbreads with sweet potato tortellini, sunchoke cream and pearl onions are both great starters.
And for your main the short ribs with caramelized onions, apples, Portobello and sweet spices or the black risotto with mushroom ragout, chevre cheese and croutons are both excellent.
Cousin Sarah suggests the ’07 Rehasim Dishon Cabernet. For dessert we suggest the coconut cappuccino with baked cheese, lemon cream and pineapple sorbet.
Day Two: Start your day at Atnachta – B,L,D: Daily, 190 Dizenghof, 972 3-522-6001
The coffee is from Madagascar, Venezuela and Africa. You have a choice of eggs, including omelets with herbs and mushrooms. Another option includes granola, fresh fruit and goat yogurt.
It’s a good time to check out the Neve Tzedek, the first neighborhood to be built outside the walls of Jaffa . Neve Tzedek means Abode of Justice, but it is also one of the names for God.
The cultural center of Neve Tzedek is the Susan Dalal Center – Su-Th: 9-7, F: 9-11, Yehieli 5, Neve Tzedek, 03 5105657.
The Center presents a year-round calendar of Israeli and international contemporary dance companies as well as festivals that highlight regionally specific companies and dance styles, such as flamenco, classical Indian dance, traditional and contemporary dance from China.
The Center is surrounded by historical structures featuring Bauhaus architecture, narrow streets, gardens, piazzas, cafés and restaurants.
Deca – L & D: Su-Th, htasia 10, 05 79 442900 is our lunch stop.
We like the pickled salmon on a focaccia. served with creme fraiche, capers, dill & chili or the sweet pickled pumpkin with mozzarella cheese, pumpkin seeds and sunflower sprouts.
Enjoy a glass of the Tabor 562 Brut.
We think you’ll like the drum fish in a rich bouillabaisse soup with a scent of orange and pernod, zucchini, coriander and saffron.
Another choice is the barrarmundi wrapped in almonds and pecans served with pickled lemon gnocchi.
These dishes will go well with the ’06 Merlot by Kitron-Hasharon. Enjoy the crème brulee for dessert.
You should visit The Helena Rubinstein Pavilion for Contemporary Art – M-Sa: 10-6, Tu,Th: till 9, F: till 2, 6 Tarsat Blvd, 972 (0)3 5287196.
It’s home to one of the world’s largest collections of Israeli art in a variety of fields – painting, sculpture, prints and drawings, photography, video, installations and architecture and design.
Notable artists here include: van Gogh, Chagall, Pissarro, Kandinsky, Ernst, Pollock and Rothko.
A visit to the Beit Hatfutsot Diaspora Museum – Su-Tu: 10-4, W,Th: 10-7, F: 9-1, Tel-Aviv University, Klausner Street, in Ramat Aviv, 972-3-7457808 provides the ongoing story of the Jewish people.
You will learn about the 4,000 year-old story of the Jewish people and the multiculturalism of Jewish diversity. Beit Hatfutsot is a relevant, cutting-edge museum and cultural center.
Mul Yam – L & D: Daily, Tel Aviv-Yafo, 972 3 546 9920 is a popular choice for dinner.
To begin a good choice is the seared black cod in a citrus-jalapeno vinaigrette with a carrot –daikon salad or the crab soup veloute and a glass of ’05 J. Lassalle Brut.
Mains are coquille St. Jacques with seared foie gras on a yellow carrot puree or the rack of lamb with Turkish spinach, asparagus and mushrooms.
The ’11 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru will work. Dessert is the Mul Yam cashew, pistachio or lemon macaroons.
Day Three: Breakfast is at Café Kaymak – B,L,D: Daily, Levinsky 49, Shuk Levinsky, 03-5185228.
They are famous for their coffee and ethnic vegetarian cooking. Today is market day and to start visit the Levinsky Market – Su-Th: 8-6, F: 8-4:30, Levinsky St.
The Levinsky Market is the place for spices, bakery shops, numerous sections of burekas (filled pastry) shops and wonderful delicatessens which offer pickles, cheeses, exotic meat cold cuts, filled olives and a great variety of other goods.
Next you’ll want to squeeze in a stop at the Tel Aviv Museum of Art – M-Sa: 10-6, Tu,Th: till 9, F: till 2, 27 Shaul Hamelech Blvd, 972 (0)3 6077020.
The museum’s permanent collection has major movements of modern art including Fauvism, German Expressionism, Cubism and Surrealism.
French artists are represented by Soutine and Picasso. Joan Miro is here and Roy Lichtenstein created a two-panel mural for the entrance foyer. Other favorites are Gustav Klimt and Wassily Kandinsky.
The Peggy Guggenheim collection donated works by Jackson Pollock, William Baziotes, Richard Pousette-Dart, Roberto Matta and Andre Masson. Sculptures are displayed in the entrance plaza and in an internal sculpture garden.
At Orna & Ella – B,L,D: Daily, 33 Shenkin Street, 972 3 525 2085 you’ll find an interesting menu.
You have some fun choices for starters such as: the fig brioche with Roquefort and fried risotto balls stuffed with mozzarella. Another favorite is the cauliflower siniya with baked tomatoes and Majadra.
The chicken skewers come with quinoa salad, tahini and a baked potato. The Moroccan fish cakes have a spicy sauce and are served with cous cous.
Your wine is the ’10 Har Odem Syrah. Dessert is their pavlova.
The really big market that you want to visit in Tel Aviv is the Carmel Market – Open Daily, Bordered by Allenby Street and Magen David Square but mainly along Carmel Street.
Here you’ll find bars, restaurants, coffee shops and chef-owned food stalls where you can taste hand-made Jachnun, a traditional Yemenite dish and boutique cheeses.
Other choices include salted fish, cured meats, Middle Eastern fare, fresh baked French pastries, local-roasted coffee, fresh-pressed fruit or vegetable juice blends to wash it all down.
And if you’re here on a Tuesday or a Friday you should definitely check out Nachalat Binyamin Street – Tu: 10-5, F: 10-4:30.
220 artists turn up each week to sell their works. The artists allowed to exhibit are selected by a committee which is required to approve both the artists and the items which will be sold.
In order to be accepted the artists’ work must be original, handmade and the artist has to be present at the stall.
The types of artists and nature of their work is varied with stalls featuring glass dinnerware and custom made door signs to jewelry.
Other parts of this experience are performance artists, fortune tellers and clowns.
You’ve been busy but you must find time in your schedule to hit the beaches.
There are eight major beaches in town, each with its own crowd and character. Gordon, across from the Sheraton Hotel, is the most popular.
Until next time, best wishes and happy travels,
Dick & Dee Welge
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